Mercoledì 8 dicembre 2009 le Hawaii sono state colpite da un enorme swell. Le abitazioni più vicine alla costa sono state addirittura evacuate preventivamente. Tutti i migliori big wave rider si sono presentati puntuali all’appuntamento con l’oceano. Pio Marasco da Maui ci fa sapere che lo swell è stato grosso ma non gigante. Si attendeva uno degli swell più grossi degli ultimi decenni ma all’ultimo ha girato troppo da ovest perdendo per strada 10-15 piedi, altrimenti sarebbero stati tranquillamente 50 feet!!!
Jasono Polakow ha rischiato di morire prendendosi sulla testa 3 onde consecutive dopo un wipe out. Laird Hamilton ha dichiarato che Jason ha avuto molta fortuna e che nessuno prima di lui era sopravvissuto a 3 onde consecutive. Tutti i rider presenti all’evento hanno rischiato tanto. In acqua anche il nostro Francisco Porcella che ha surfato alla grande prendendo anche una sinistra, inusuale per uno spot come Jaws! Grande Francisco! Lasciamo ora la parola a Francisco Goya ed alla sua esperienza a Jaws…


Francisco Goya: “We knew a few days ahead that we will be getting a good swell. The crew on the boat up to the break was Josh Stone, Keith Teboul, Jason Prior, my brother Alejandro, Frankie and Mike, we got there and the wind was very light. About 15 jet skis were there, a few for towing but mostly all with windsurfing gear on the back sled. While we waited most of the guys put their gear on the boat and went tow-surfing, Josh, Keith, Levi, Kai, Francisco and a few more. They all started getting some good waves until the clouds moved in and started pouring, after almost 2 hours from when we got there the wind finally kicked in, Josh started rigging on the front of the boat while I was rigging on the back, Levi and Francisco Porcella hang the tow board (Francisco had a unique tow-in wipeout on a good size one) I put on the life best and we power up wind with Josh. I had no idea what to expect other that I would have to be focus and ride fast. Everything seems to be multiplied at that point, to start the chop is bigger, the swell moves faster, once on the face the wind accelerates, the board is basically going as fast as it can go and you holding on to the boom with all you got, it takes you about 3x the time to drop in that wave that what it takes you at Ho'okipa, at one point I was just going as fast as I could go but I wasn't really going anywhere on the wave other than deeper, still I had the reference from the jet-skis to guide me, I knew that if I made close to them I will be clear from the back. When I watch big surf everything seems slow motion but in reality couldn't be further from the truth. We all got at least 5 to 10 waves, it was starting to get dark and when with Francisco Porcella we didn't have enough wind to make it down that last set and as we turned around we realize we weren't really were we mostly wish to be, right there Jason Prior came in with the ski and escort us out, that was a rookie mistake. On the way back the ski from Micah and Antoine broke down so Brow, Ricardo and Patrick jump in and we rode back to the harbor, we made it in pitch black and Frankie took a shot from it, one of my best da”.